

1973-Allir í bátana

Rhian Hedd Meara
Rhian has been coming to Heimaey since 2022 to research the Eldfell eruption and its impacts on the Vestmannaeyingar. In 2023, Rhian collaborated with Manon to develop two short stories about this research which were presented at the National Eisteddfod of Wales, an annual national festival dedicated to the Welsh language and culture. This initial partnership was very successful and so we applied for funding to support us working together again. We were awarded a grant which supported Rhian to do more fieldwork to Heimaey, and for Manon to write two further stories. Manon wrote the original stories in Welsh and then translated these to English. The four stories imagine the Vestmannaeyingar´s experiences of the Eldfell 1973 eruption. These experiences are shared through the eyes of several characters, including Elín and Gunnar, and highlight different impacts of the eruption both during and after the event. The grant has also supported the translation of these short stories into Icelandic by Áslaug, so that we can share them with the Vestmannaeyingar.
Heimþrá til Heimaeyjar
Hwo are behind the project:



Author:
Manon Steffan Ros,
a prize-winning author, singer and playwriter from Wales.
Researcher:
Dr Rhian Hedd Meara, a senior lecturer from Swansea University specialising in Socio-volcanology.
Translator:
Áslaug Hersteinsdóttir, interpreter and translator working for the Nordic Council of Ministers. Translaitet to Icelandic

The Field
I can remember the exact smell of that field.
You don't realise that fields have their own particular smell until that smell changes and is lost. It's like the scent of your late mother's hair, or the aroma of the cloakroom in your old primary school. And this field, our field, was grass and sweet manure and wildflowers, and a little bit of the ocean and seaweed and fresh air.
Our field, but, of course, not ours - someone else's land, but there you go, we must pity those who think they can ever truly own any part of the earth's shell. All we can do is exist on it for a while. As I did. As we did, together, our jeans getting damp at our bottoms after hours of sitting down, the cotton gently absorbing the wetness of the grass.
It was in that field that you first reached out your hand to entwine your fingers in mine.
It was in that field that I came to learn that you too had your own unique scent, soap and moss and something ever so slightly dangerous, like fire.
It was in that field that you said that I had a pretty singing voice, and I told you about the books I was reading, and we sat and lay and talked and laughed, gathering days and kisses and secrets and freckles. And it was in that field that we stood, later than we should have been, you picking the grass out of my hair, when the earth under our feet started grumbling, as if we'd woken it up by loving too loudly. And we quaked, hand in hand, and I was somehow unable to find gravity.
'Earthquake,' you said. 'It's fine. It's fine.' And your big hand and long fingers felt like the only stable thing on earth at that moment.
I didn't see you for a long time after that, because we had cracked something in the earth, somehow, something that spilt fire and ash and smoke. We had to leave home - my family to one place, and yours to another - and when it was time to return to new homes, houses that smelled like nothing but plaster and paint and blankness, our field was no longer there. It had become a mountain, a scar and a scab on the face of the earth to remind me of everything I'd lost. I didn't know that the earth could do that - create mountains in a fit of hot temper, create slopes and hollows and jagged cracks where there had been nothing but lovers in a field, blushing under the sun and the touch of each other's hands.

Furniture
Rescuing things from a house was a man's job. Gunnar knew exactly how to be a man. His boyhood had been spent quietly shadowing his father, and watching his busy, careful hands was the only worthwhile education he had. Women created, and men saved. Busied their hands to make everything alright.
But when the earth started to grumble beneath the foundations of their carefully built and cautiously mortgaged home, Gunnar could not build his way out of what was approaching. And Elín, leaving their home with the small, gem-blue suitcase that she had bought specially for their honeymoon, and in her other hand a birdcage, swinging back and forth like a silent warning bell, covered in a yellow candlewick blanket stolen from the spare bed. Even as the land was tearing itself into fiery pieces under them, Elín moved lightly, gracefully, like a little bird.
Gunnar was the one who returned to the island with the other men - a rescue mission following the smell of smoke, going to see what was salvageable in their homes. The whitewashed house was now black, a kind of impossible, velvety black, like a raven's wing. He'd almost walked past his own home, searching for somewhere that looked familiar. Under torchlight, he explored his house, looking for the things that Elín treasured most - the record player, the silk dresses she had worn when she'd lived in a brighter place than this. Photographs from their wedding, and a tidy pile of old love letters, tied together with a yellow ribbon.
He was aboard a boat on his way back to the mainland when he remembered the things that he would like to have saved from the house. Had he thought to consider his own wishes as well as those of his wife - the tools in the garage, the five books he kept on his bedside table. And his father's chair. He realised that he would never see the chair again - the one made by his father, wordlessly teaching Gunnar as he turned and whittled the pale wood and varnished it in carefully. The chair that stood, silent and strong as his father, in the lounge of his childhood home, the chair that came with him to his new home when he married Elín. The piece of furniture was as solid and strong as she was fine-boned and delicate

The Raven
There was a bird. She swoops into my memory sometimes, unexpectedly. When I'm trying to remember things from that time, important things, she comes to me with such clarity, such colour, that it almost frightens me. I try and remember the name of a neighbour - You know - Jóhan's wife, the one that always wore an apron - or when I try to remember the exact pattern that was on the bathroom tiles, the ones with the flowers... Were they blue or green? And the bird, the raven, comes to me through the open window of my memory, alive and darting as a fire in my mind.
I had two birds in a cage by the window in the living room - lovebirds, of all things, - soft-coloured birds, somehow both kind-seeming and stupid. They were a wedding gift from Gunnar, an awkward attempt at romance, the kind of thing a woman - some generic woman - would like. I adored them for a fortnight, before I realised that the awkward romance was, in truth, an awkward irony - two birds caged together forever, their right to flight forever taken from them. The symbolism was obvious enough that it was almost, almost funny.
But the bird outside was a raven, her black feathers somehow darker in contrast to the ice cream colours of my caged birds. Her eyes were shining beads, the same colour as a disappointing sunset, a blue-grey that could see more than other eyes.
My raven begun to stalk me. I enjoyed her attention.
Sitting on the fence in the garden, her eyes turned to the windows, watching me ironing or reading or cooking or crying. Watching my occasional laziness. Once, from the bathroom windowsill, seeing my nakedness as I stepped out of the bath, tilting her head as I swore at her.
Go away! I yelled at her a few times, tired of her constant voyeurism - but I left crusts of bread out for her too, and apple peel, and I'd look for her when I opened the curtains in the morning, searching the square view from the window for the way her blackness seemed to dim all the lightness around her. And she brought me stones, leaving me ugly, misshapen black lumps on the windowsill - the small, rough stones that used to be lava, a long time ago.
But when the eruption came, I was told to take the caged birds with me to the mainland. But not the raven. Not my friend in the window, with her cloudy eyes. That is, perhaps, the way of things - the wild birds are never saved, but at least they know the feeling of stretching their wings open wide.

Home
They come here in their hundreds, to see if they can still smell smoke and tragedy in the streets and fields around my home.
To put their feet on ground that was once dangerous, as long as it's now safe; To see what can happen when the earth coughs a bit of the fire from her belly. I watch them sometimes, when I'm queuing to buy milk from the shop or waiting for the dog to do its business whilst we're out walking. Tragedy tourists. There's something so wonderfully attractive about a place that has carried such sadness.
The way this place is two places at once, the quantum versions of the island created by Them and Us. To me a lively, living place, a home where I put clothes on the washing line and where I have to find a plumber to fix the dodgy tap in the utility room, where I go to smoke behind the garage after arguing with my husband, and where we walk afterwards, the dissent between us gradually mending. To Them, a place where the black ash still dances invisibly, menacingly on the breeze, where our history is a Hollywood film plot starring Jake Gyllenhall wearing a dystopian face and a white woollen jumper. To me, a home; to Them a brand-new Pompeii, a once-upon-a-time place, a cemetery. They visit and they bow their heads respectfully, silently before returning home, as if their home is not also built on a spinning sphere, her belly boiling with fire.

Upcoming Events
Rhian Meara presented a project related to the Eldfell eruption at Goslok 2025 and concluded her presentation with stories in English. A recording of the presentation is available online.
Dr. Rhian Hedd Meara, a geoscientist and social science researcher from Swansea University, participated in the 2025 Goslok Festival in Vestmannaeyjar, where she introduced a project focused on the impact of the 1973 Eldfell eruption on the Heimaey community. In her presentation, she discussed how the eruption profoundly affected the island’s residents and how it shaped her research on the relationship between natural disasters and societal change.

Isle of Fire
The Isle of Fire series was created by geographers and geoscientists to bring the dramatic story of volcanic eruptions into classrooms. It focuses on the 1973 Heimaey eruption in Iceland and connects it to modern volcanic activity on the Reykjanes peninsula. The aim was to help schoolchildren understand how communities prepare for, respond to, and recover from eruptions.
The videos were produced by Time for Geography, in collaboration with universities and experts such as Dr. Rhian Hedd Meara. They combine historical footage, expert interviews, and modern hazard management lessons. The purpose was both educational and inspirational: showing resilience, scientific innovation, and the importance of geography in protecting lives.